Oh no! But who knows, we might be in for an interesting surprise. Francesco Risso is appointed as her replacement, so therefore the first man as creative director at Marni, a brand “so female based” as Lucinda Chambers, fashion director of Vogue UK, said herself.
Though only founded in 1994, Marni feels like being here forever. Never quite in the spotlight alongside Gucci, Prada or Fendi, its fellow Italian luxury labels, but always on spot. With pieces that don’t scream “Happy New Year!“, but are there, at the party, to subtle dance and have the time of their lives.
Forever. This is what Marni clothes do.
Dance. The brand hasn’t ever followed the trends and, never, in fact, cared too much about the fashion va-va-voom going on in the spotlight. It sprung from passion for fashion and was created by Consuelo Castiglioni herself; aged 35 then; named after her sister, Marni; without any training in fashion. Sort of speaking, as she managed to turn up side down her husband’s family fur company by transforming the old-fashioned designs into modern furry pieces.
One must have the eye, courage and talent.
Marni’s aesthetic of European-inflected bohemianism is something almost everyone in love with clothing, jewellery, handbags and eyewear want in their wardrobe. It is not only recognisable from a distance – it is unique – but it is also timeless through its juxtapositions of bold colours, textures and prints, colourblocking and untypical shapes. It’s an investment, it is something your daughter will wear and brag about many years later. Or today. Or next spring. Whenever.
Moreover, sometimes it is, also, about the people who make all of the above possible. When Marni collaborated with h&m, back in 2011, I not only loved the unexpected forms and combination of shades, but also fell in love with Consuelo Castiglioni. Marni, however, is not only a brand for women that dress for other women (or themselves) rather than for men, but it is also made by a woman who really loves women.
And has fun. One can see it in her eyes. And creations.
Marni is a statement and Consuelo Castiglioni is not only a style icon, but also helps other women become style icons through her designs.
Risso, a Central Saint Martins alumni, has worked under a number of big fashion designers, including Alessandro Dell’Acqua, Anna Molinari, and, most recently, Miuccia Prada. His first collection for Marni will be shown at Milan Fashion Week in February for the fall/winter 2017 season.
Shall we dance, Francesco?